Take a camping trip around Upper Austria

Our tour of Upper Austria begins in Passau, on the Bavarian-Austrian border. The City on Three Rivers, as it is known, can be easily reached via Germany’s A3 motorway. Surprises are the order of the day in Upper Austria. This quickly becomes clear just a few kilometres over the border from Passau. 

At this point, we recommend taking a detour to the north into the Mühlviertel. Polished over millions of years, the rolling hills of this granite plateau offer a wealth of stunning views. The Kefermarkt winged altarpiece is a hidden jewel of Gothic sculpture, whose incredibly lifelike and expressive figures are turned to face the viewer. And a few kilometres further north lie the intact medieval walls enclosing the brewing town of Freistadt. As well as being famous for its typical Mühlviertel beers, the town’s brewery also has a unique legal structure. Shares in the Braucommune, or brewing community, which are calculated in buckets, have been linked to the ownership of houses in Freistadt’s old town since time immemorial.

It’s time to turn southwards again, across the Danube and past Enns – the oldest town in Austria – with its eye-catching clock tower, to Steyr. This city lies on the rivers Enns and Steyr, which unite against the backdrop of one of Austria’s most magnificent old towns. In ancient times, the iron from Styria’s Erzberg mine was brought in on the rivers by boat. And with it came prosperity and wealth. Townhouses in the city reflect every architectural style from Gothic to Baroque to Rococo, while historical monuments to industrial history can be found in the Wehrgraben district.

Most importantly, however, Steyr is the gateway to the Kalkalpen National Park. Austria’s largest forest national park is a refuge for rare plants and animals. Lynx prowl through upland forests of ancient beech trees – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you continue south through the wild and romantic Enns Valley, into ever more imposing mountains, you mustn’t miss a two-wheeled detour along the Hintergebirgsradweg cycle path at Reichraming. This wide track, which winds repeatedly through tunnels carved into the rocks, harks back to the time when timber was felled here and transported out of the head of the valley via a forest railway.

Culture and tradition are nurtured and preserved in Upper Austria’s monasteries. And behind monastery walls, they also know how to eat well. If you catch sight of the towers of Schlierbach Abbey on your way through the Krems Valley, you’d be wise to take a break for refreshment, as the Cistercian monastery  produces its own cheese, which can be sampled in the on-site restaurant. A mouth-watering final stop before you continue into the Salzkammergut.

Forested and restful, the Alm Valley offers a foretaste of this region of lakes and mountains. Where the Almsee lake nestles peacefully at the head of the valley, the health benefits of woodlands are well-known. “Waldness” is the name given here to a form of forest wellness, where visitors enjoy relaxing and restorative stays in the woods, supported by professional coaches. What’s more, the deepest lake in Austria, Traunsee, is only a stone’s throw away. Gmunden on the lake’s northern shore is the home of Gmundner Keramik, fine tableware from Upper Austria. In the Salzkammergut region, where the concept of the summer holiday was invented, nature doesn’t hold back on superlatives. Continue on to the Attersee to discover the largest inland lake in the whole of Austria and the best surroundings in which to enjoy freshly caught fish. Perhaps you too will find inspiration in the place that helped propel both Gustav Klimt and Gustav Mahler to the pinnacle of their creativity during summer visits. You’re sure to encounter these two famous names as you make your way through the Salzkammergut.

A road popular with Salzkammergut aficionados follows the Weißenbach along its winding valley from the Attersee across to the Traun Valley and on to Bad Ischl. The town, which will be the European Capital of Culture in 2024 together with the surrounding Salzkammergut region, is much more than just the former summer retreat of the Austrian emperor. Of course, a visit to the Kaiservilla and a taste of delicious Zaunerstollen from Zauner, former confectioners to the Imperial and Royal Court, are musts. But then there’s also Katrin, Bad Ischl’s local mountain, which has its own cable car and a breathtaking view of the majestic Dachstein massif. And anyone who has taken a hike up the Rettenbachalm will never forget the mouth-watering delights served in the local inn.

Let’s turn our attention back to the Dachstein. The highest mountain in Upper Austria is located in the federal state’s southernmost corner. Take the cable car up to the spectacular 5fingers viewing platform to gaze hundreds of metres down onto Lake Hallstatt and the small town of Hallstatt, the UNESCO World Heritage Site that has given its name to an entire period of human history. A visit to Salzwelten Hallstatt will give you the chance to see inside the world’s oldest salt mine. The Dachstein mountain itself is criss-crossed by labyrinthine cave systems, which are gradually being explored. If you venture into the Giant Ice Cave, prepare to be stunned by the dazzling ice sculptures that have been shaped by nature.

The names of other large lakes will also feature on your journey through the Salzkammergut. For instance, there are unique opportunities to set up camp directly beside the turquoise waters of Lake Wolfgang. And if you take a ride up the Schafberg at full steam on the rack-and-pinion railway, panoramic views of the Salzkammergut’s lakes come as standard. Finally, Mondsee is an ideal destination, whether you’re a water sports enthusiast or you simply fancy a relaxing paddle. It’s the warmest bathing lake in the region, making it the perfect place to end your tour of Upper Austria and linger a little while longer. After all, moments like this are precious.

If you want to be among the first to take a dip in the lake at the beginning of the season, drive a little further. In the region where Upper Austria’s Innviertel region meets the Salzburg Flachgau district, nature has crafted some wonderful treasures. Moor lakes like Heratingersee Lake or Holzöstersee Lake have the delightful feature of reaching pleasantly warm water temperatures early in the year. So, it’s ideal for a quick stopover and a splash in the water. This phenomenon is thanks to the moors in this area, including the Ibmer Moor, the largest contiguous moorland in Austria, with its exciting flora and fauna. Then there’s the Weidmoos nature reserve, a habitat for rare bird species. In Innviertel, nature goes hand in hand with technology and innovation, something you can admire at the KTM Motohall in Mattighofen, the home of the globally successful motorcycle manufacturer. This region has a long history of skilled craftsmanship. The imposing Burghausen Castle, which stretches for a kilometre along the Bavarian side of the Salzach River, is a striking example and holds the record as the world’s longest castle.

Moving on from Braunau, the largest city in the Innviertel region with its charming Gothic town square and one of Austria’s tallest church towers, the journey takes you to a hot spring. This natural spring water, gushing up from the depths, nourishes the pools of the Therme Geinberg spa. You can truly unwind at the Caribbean-style beach by the saltwater lagoon. But it’s not only those seeking relaxation who find solace in these thermal waters. The plants in the greenhouses of the “BIOhof Geinberg” organic farm also thrive when heated sustainably with this mineral-rich water. Close by, at BIOhof itself, a farm shop invites you to explore and purchase regional delicacies sourced from producers throughout Innviertel. Before moving forward, a visit to the serene Pramet swimming lake offers a refreshing break. The journey continues to Ried im Innkreis, a city renowned as the residence and workplace of the famous sculptor dynasty, the Schwanthalers. The historic city centre, with its abundance of welcoming inns, is definitely worth a leisurely stroll. The Inn River not only forms the border with Bavaria but also serves as the lifeblood of this region. Obernberg am Inn stands out with its charming, colourful house facades and hosts the only bird of prey show in Upper Austria at its castle. As you head toward Reichersberg, home to an impressive Baroque Augustinian abbey, the route eventually circles back to Schärding, completing the journey.

The Baroque town along the Inn River is once again within reach of Passau, where the river merges with the Danube. Between the vibrant houses of the renowned Silberzeile, a row of coloured houses in the style of the late Baroque period, and contemporary art in the Schlossgalerie, this is the perfect spot to conclude your journey through Upper Austria. And perhaps linger a little longer. After all, the moment is so beautiful.