The Goldhaube — what makes them so sustainable and why cookies are the best currency

This motto embodies the spirit of the approximately 18,000 women in Upper Austria who are part of the “Goldhauben-, Kopftuch- und Hutgruppen” (Golden Cap, Headscarf and Hat Groups), managed by 17 district governors. Among them are Sabine Grünberger (pictured left) and Barbara Marksteiner (pictured right).

Their love for the Goldhaube could be said to run in their blood. Their mother had one, as did their mother-in-law, and at some point, “this Golden Cap just finds its way straight into your heart,” shares Sabine Grünberger, who eventually started embroidering her own Goldhaube. It took her 300 hours, with the materials valued at 1,350 euro. However, one can also do it in a more budget-friendly way, starting from 700 euro. Eternal durability and exclusivity (no two caps are the same) are nearly always guaranteed.

“In that sense, a Goldhaube and a matching silk dirndl dress are unparalleled when it comes sustainability,” says Grünberger, who, in her day job, works in quality management with a focus on environment and sustainability. Her sister Barbara is a passionate farmer and runs a guesthouse in Mauthausen.

The Goldhauben are worn at various church events, but also at occasions such as “Danube in Flames”, where the Goldhauben women are admired by American tourists. Since the Biedermeier period, the Goldhaube has been part of Austria’s traditional costume or “Tracht” culture. The most famous Goldhaube in Austria is the Linz Goldhaube. Ignaz de Luca first mentioned this style of cap in his travel descriptions in 1782. From 1805, it was worn throughout Upper Austria and parts of the neighbouring state of Salzburg. Today, the Goldhaube represents lived tradition, community and social engagement. “We are the largest female charity club in the country. Last year alone, we collected 750,000 euro in donations. We collected the sum by selling cookies: cookies are indeed our currency,” Marksteiner explains.

Since traditional clothing started becoming fashionable again some ten years ago, young women have shown an increased interest in the Goldhauben. Of course, an elegant headpiece such as this is traditionally paired with a dirndl, preferably made of silk. However, a local traditional dress would also be appropriate. “Naturally, it should be long, though we can quite imagine that the dirndl skirt could also be a bit shorter.” A little modernisation is certainly allowed. “What absolutely doesn’t work is a Goldhaube paired with jeans and a blouse,” the two stringent experts agree.

Creativity is encouraged, though. Each wearer is free to embellish her dress: with pearl embroidery, lace inserts, smocking and lace collars. “Such a dirndl can last a lifetime,” says Barbara Marksteiner. “Should the wearer’s weight change, the dress can easily be altered to be made larger or smaller.” Such traditional attire is not only a historical treasure but also a barometer for one’s figure. If the dirndl pinches, it’s time to cut back on the cookies.

Barbara Marksteiner
Goldenhaube Group, Perg district

Where one might run into Barbara Marksteiner during her free time:

This article appeared in the series “Faszination Heimat” (Fascinating Homeland) in OÖNachrichten.
Text by Barbara Rohrhofer, photos by Volker Weihbold.