In Upper Austria, the preservation of tradition is intertwined with the embrace of innovative ideas. From the ancient salt mines to the refined art of fly fishing, the culinary offerings in this region go beyond mere flavour, captivating all senses. Here are 9 authentic culinary experiences that epitomise the unique charm of Upper Austrian cuisine.
In bygone days, when weaving was a prevalent craft and flax was transformed into fine linen, Upper Austria was famed for its vibrant flax fields. These fields blossomed into a sea of blue each summer. The seeds harvested from these fields were pressed into linseed oil. A handful of weavers and mills have preserved these traditional methods, continuing to produce both linen and linseed oil, renowned as one of the finest edible oils available. Renowned for its health benefits and distinctive flavour, linseed oil features in numerous local dishes. Visitors to the Mühlviertel region should not miss tasting the Mühlviertler Leinölerdäpfel (linseed oil potatoes) and taking a tour of a local mill to experience the production of this exquisite oil up close.
Salt is a staple in numerous traditional products and dishes, from bacon and cheese to sauerkraut. It also plays a crucial role in culinary techniques like fermentation, which is experiencing a renaissance in modern haute cuisine. But where was salt sourced in an era before easy sea access? The UNESCO World Heritage site of Hallstatt is home to one of the world’s oldest salt mines, with a history stretching back over 7,000 years. A word of advice: dress warmly, as temperatures in the mine hover around 8 degrees Celsius all year round. Following your journey through time, be sure to acquire some authentic Bad Ischler salt from the Salzkontor — a unique opportunity to connect with the source of Upper Austria’s famed salt.
While the Linzer Torte is celebrated as an intangible cultural treasure throughout Austria, many Upper Austrians hold the Apfelschlangerl dear as the quintessential Sunday treat. The origin of the name “Schlangerl”, meaning little snake, may mystify some, but any puzzlement fades once you see the luscious, sweet apples enveloped in flaky pastry before you. To leave Upper Austria without sampling Apfelschlangerl would be almost sacrilegious. To make an informed choice between it and the Linzer Torte, a visit to the Konditorei Jindrak confectionary is essential, where you can determine which dessert truly reigns supreme.
Given its abundant grain fields, it’s unsurprising that breadmaking is one of Upper Austria’s proudest traditions. This craft, nearly alchemical in its nature, masterfully turns basic ingredients into intricate flavours such as those found in sourdough bread. Bread baking demands one essential ingredient above all: time. This practice, akin to what we modernly refer to as “mindfulness”, has long been embedded in the regional culture. While sourdough enjoys widespread affection, “Mohnflesserl” — or braided poppy seed rolls — also occupy a special niche in local hearts. To truly appreciate their unique charm, one must visit Bäckerei Brandl. Esteemed for its quality for over 130 years, this traditional bakery allows patrons to watch the skilled bakers at work from the comfort of the adjoining café.
Experiencing a deer in its natural habitat has become a rarity. However, Upper Austria’s national parks provide nearly ideal conditions for these animals to thrive with minimal human interference. At Kalkalpen National Park, you can join a guided tour to safely observe deer and stags, learning fascinating insights about these majestic creatures from an experienced ranger. During the summer months, witness the intricate family interactions of does and their fawns at twilight. Come autumn, the air fills with the resonant calls of stags, marking the beginning of the mating season. The game here, nourished solely by the natural flora, ranks among the most sustainable and wholesome meats available. At RAU in Großraming, close to the park, chef Klemens Schraml crafts dishes that bring the essence of the wild into your dining experience. Similarly, the Landhotel Forsthof in Sierning offers an authentic dining experience featuring expertly prepared game dishes.
The “Schwarzreiter Saibling”, exclusive to Lake Attersee, is a unique variety of char that inhabits its deep waters. Its flesh, vibrant orange before cooking, turns into a soft ivory upon preparation. Traditionally paired with brown butter and parsley potatoes, this char is a culinary treasure at the Langostinos, where it is served grilled atop a crisp bed of lettuce. According to local lore, Emperor Franz Joseph so cherished this fish that he dispatched riders at night to guard against poaching, hence the moniker “Schwarzreiter Saibling” or “Black Rider Char”. This prized fish is available seasonally from August to November and in February.
In Upper Austria, Knödel are a daily delight, available in myriad forms: firm or fluffy, large or small, savoury or sweet. At the “Knödelakademie”, enthusiasts learn that practice leads to perfection. Seminar leaders, skilled farmwives and dumpling aficionados, enthusiastically impart their culinary wisdom. Participants explore a range of recipes from traditional to innovative, including fish Knödel. Embrace Upper Austria’s rich dumpling culture and impress your dinner guests with the finest Knödels they’ve ever tasted — your newfound skills can remain your delicious secret.
Upper Austrian Leberkäse is a culinary success story that has crossed regional borders. The beloved snack, “Leberkässemmel”, isn’t confined to any particular time of day, though many would argue it tastes best when sourced from Leberkas Pepi. Originating in Linz, this establishment has garnered such popularity that it now boasts branches in Vienna and Klagenfurt, ensuring you’re never too far from a delectable Leberkäse. It’s particularly irresistible served in a freshly baked roll with a dollop of sweet mustard.
At Gasthaus Silmbroth, the path from butcher’s block to dining table is remarkably short, with the butchery and inn operating under a single roof since 1905. This establishment continues to passionately serve traditional Upper Austrian cuisine as it was done over a century ago. A must-try is the celebrated Kesselheiße, a traditional dish where fresh sausages are boiled in a large kettle every Thursday. Once ordered, the sausage is served wrapped in paper, meant to be eaten directly in the dining room without the need for cutlery. Local rolls are provided for a truly hands-on meal. Accompany your Kesselheiße with a pint of beer to fully immerse yourself in the essence of Upper Austrian inn culture.